Townsite Brewing Has Arrived!

Posted on May 27, 2013 by storiesbywilliams

Ever since my wife and I landed in Powell River as part of our summer trip last year, hiking the Sunshine Coast Trail, we were surprised and impressed to find a craft brewing operation in the heart of town that catered to the Sunshine Coast. Not only were they well-situated as an operation, they seemed to know what they were doing when it came to producing quality beers. I can still remember sampling their Pale Ale, Blonde Ale, Porter, and the summer seasonal, a Blackberry Wheat that honored the city’s annual Blackberry Festival.

Unfortunately, I lamented the fact that, at the time, their products were not available on Vancouver Island. With the exception of Comox, which is a short ferry ride away, not a single beer store on the island was known to carry their lineup. Sure, you could find it up and down the Sunshine Coast, in Vancouver, and even parts of Washington State. But not in Victoria or the Southern Island, no sir!

Well, as it turns out, that is no longer the case. A number of private stores (such as Metro and Cascadia Liquor) have begun stocking their full lineup. That includes their Tin Hat IPA, Zunga Blonde Ale, Suncoast Pale, Pow Town Porter, Westview Wheat, and the latest, the YOGN 82 Belgian Triple. And with the exception of a few labels, I can attest to the quality of these beers. I even had a chance to sample some of the latest now that they are available locally. Here’s what I had to try most recently:

Said the Ale Belgian Pale Ale:
A special release from the Townsite Brewery, this beer has a rather interesting origin story. Apparently, the beer is part of a commitment on behalf of BC brewers to produce beer in honor of various Canadian bands. In this case, the Townsite brewery made this beer in honor of Said The Whale, a Canadian indie rock group that has was recently featured on CBC radio.

Appearance: Deep red/amber, clear, good foam retention and carbonation
Nose: Distinctive Belgian yeast, mild notes of bitter hops
Taste: Immediate burst of Belgian yeast, rich malts, snap of piney hops
Aftertaste: Quite clean, mild tang, lingering yeasts and mild citrus
Overall: 8.5/10

As a Belgian Pale Ale, this beer combines aspects of the most famous variety of beer to be brewed in the Pacific Northwest and is fermented using a specific strain of Belgian yeast. The result is an interesting brew that boasts a yeasty nose and flavor with the rich malts and sharp, hoppy taste of a pale ale. In keeping with the recent trend of Belgian IPAs, this Belgian Pale Ale is quite refreshing and balanced in terms of flavor and quite appealing to the palate.

YOGN 82 Belgian Triple:
Brewed in honor of Cedric, the Townsite Brewer Engineer who hails from Belgium, and “the Hulks” – the concrete ships that make up the town’s breakwater – the YOGN 82 is the brewery’s latest triple-fermented Belgian-style beer. The second in the series, after last year’s Charleston Triple, this beer weighs in at a hefty 9% alc/vol and has all the characteristics a Belgian Tripel is famous for.

This includes a golden blonde hue, a distinct yeasty nose, strong alcohol content, strong malts, and a distinct oaky flavor. And like each Hulk beer, it features a label created by a Powell River artist; this year’s featuring the art of Emma Bell.

Appearance: Dark golden, light cloudiness, good foam and carbonation
Nose: Distinctive Belgian yeast, strong notes of banana, sugars
Taste: Sweet malts and Belgian yeast, burst of banana fruit and oaky notes
Aftertaste: Sweetness giving way to coarse flavor, slight bitterness and alcohol
Overall: 8.5/10

Overall, I was strongly reminded of La Fin Du Monde, another famous Belgian-style Tripel which also possesses some serious Belgian-yeast flavor, strong malts and an oaky undertone. The difference here is in the level of fruit flavor and sweetness, in that this one possesses a good deal more of it. In addition to some serious sugars, there was also a strong hint of banana that played well with the strong alcohol content, oak and yeastiness of the beer. Might seem a little overpowering to some, but I enjoyed it.

In short, not a bad set of additions to their overall lineup. I’m pretty pleased that the brewery is available here in my corner of the world, especially since I learned that they were turning out seasonal and special releases that I had no access to! It’s not like I can pop over to Vancouver every time they release a new beer, you know!

Moon Under Water The Victorious Weizenbock

Posted on May 7, 2013 by storiesbywilliams

Finally, at long last and after months of stalling, I have managed to procure the the fourth and final beer in the new Moon Under Water lineup. I can remember long ago, back when the brewery underwent a change and released its four newest brews, how I had managed to obtain a bottle of each. But for reasons I prefer to keep to myself, the Weizenbock was lost and did not get its due!

Luckily, I managed to get a fresh bottle during my latest visit to one of my favorite beer stores and have sat down to give it a comprehensive tasting and review. And let me tell you, this fourth and final installment in their new lineup may very well be the best of the lot! It’s up against some stiff competition, but after sampling this beer and assessing its characteristics, I have to give it top marks for ingenuity and taste.

Appearance: Amber-brown, very cloudy, good foam and carbonation
Nose: Gentle notes of wheat malt, toasted sugary malt, clove spice
Taste: Bursts of banana, chocolate, cloves, spice, wheat malts and yeast
Aftertaste: Lingering tang, dance of spice and fruit notes on the tongue
Overall: 9.5/10

In short, the label claims its a combination hefeweizen/bock, and when you taste it, that’s exactly what you experience. In addition to dark, rich malts that are smooth, tawny and delicious, you also get a heaping of banana, clove spice, and the yeasty effervescence that wheat beers are famous for. And at 8.2% alc/vol, its also packs a pretty good punch, but concealed within a velvety glove. And as this beer snob will tell you, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with any of that!

Yes, I think I have a new favorite from this Victoria-based brewery, and possibly a contender for a best wheat as well. Only time will tell…

Steamworks Saison

Posted on April 17, 2013 by storiesbywilliams

Just in time for… uh, Fall! Yes, I know this is not technically appropriate to the season, but the recent arrival of Steamworks Saison to one of the local dispensaries was not something I could very well ignore. More and more, I am seeing this Vancouver-based craft brewery’s good turning up here on the island, and its exciting. In fact, almost a year ago I took a trip to their brewery for the third time and sampled as much of their lineup as I could. I really must publish the results one of these days…

But in the meantime, I am satisfied to sample their Saison, a tribute to the French-speaking province of Wallonia in southern Belgium where the style originated. Typically brewed in the colder, less active months of autumn, this variety of beer is generally milder and lighter than your typical Belgian ales – that is to say 7% alc/vol, as opposed to those with a heftier rating of 9% and above. And like many of its compatriot beers, Saisons tend to boast notes of fruit and spice, either the result of the specialized yeast that is used in fermentation or due to the additional of actual fruits and spices. In keeping with that tradition, Steamworks’ own Saison is made using a combination of wheat and barley malt, is light and yeasty, and slightly stronger than your average fare, clocking in at a respectable 6.5% alc/vol.

Appearance: Light blonde, cloudy, good foam retention and carbonation
Nose: Distinct notes of Belgian yeast, dry, slightly spicy
Taste: Slightly bitter hops, strong yeasts, hints of coriander, fruit reminiscent of dry cider
Aftertaste: Lingering yeast and coriander flavor, mild bitterness
Overall: 8/10

Yes, this beer did much to enthrall and confound me. On the one hand, it was very consistent with what I’ve come to expect from a Belgian Saison, loaded with its distinct yeast and malt flavor with hints of coriander. At the same time, I was reminded of cider, another regional favorite, since the nose and flavor of it seemed dry and acidic. But like I said, Saison beers are renowned for being spicy and fruity, and this one certainly measures up in both regards! Islanders would be well advised to get some while they can…

Hoyne’s Gratitude Winter Warmer

Posted on December 14, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

Earlier this evening, I made one of my regular trips to the Hoyne Brewery, but not just as part of one of my regular visits to refill my growlers. No, this time around, I also came heavily laden with bags full of clothes, since the brewery is taken donations of used clothing, canned goods and non-perishable items for the holiday season. So if you’re in the Rock Bay region and have some canned goods or clothes you don’t know what to do with, consider donating, because you know someone else could use more than yourself

But of course, there was also a festive spirit in the air that had to do with something other than their generosity of spirit.There was also the availability of their special winter warmer, Gratitude, which has been making the rounds in the Victoria area of late. An extra-special limited release, this beer was not even available on tap, but only by the bottle – the paper-wrapped, specially labeled bottle that is. Yes, each bottle of this winter ale comes with a label that expresses the brewery’s thanks to all those who’ve supported them this past year and all the things that we all are thankful for during the holiday season.

And as winter warmers go, this beer is faithful to tradition and a pleasure to consume. Combining subtle spice notes with a strong, dark, malty base, the beer warms the gullet, ignites the palate, but is also smooth and appealing despite its strength (9% alc/vol). And surprisingly, the beer is quite clean despite its dark and rich character, something which is relatively rare in winter ales and barley wines.

Appearance: Dark amber/brown, transparent and good foam retention
Nose: Notes of clove, nutmeg, and figgy pudding
Taste: Opens with sweet malts and spices, cloves, all spice, plums and figs
Aftertaste: Slight tang, relatively clean finish, slight lingering notes of spice
Overall: 9/10

Congrats again Hoyne for creating something subtle, experimental, but altogether appealing and satisfying. Congrats also on your first great year, conveying quality craft beers to Victorians and people of the Pacific Northwest. Keep doing what you’re doing and don’t go changing to try and please people. I meant it, don’t change!

Dead Frog Fearless IPA

Posted on November 20, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

I just got a special delivery… and I do mean special! After liaising with the good folks over at Dead Frog brewery a few weeks ago, I was told to expect some samples of their new Fearless IPA. Today was the day that my samples arrived. Yep, three bottles all wrapped up in bubble wrap and sealed in a paper-wrapped box. The sampling began shortly thereafter…

From the earliest indications, the Fearless looks, smells and pours like a true IPA, with an amber color, a hoppy bouquet, and mild foam retention. However, it is slightly different in that it has a very good clarity, which one does not always find with IPAs. The alcohol content and hop content are also consistent with a Northwestern India Pale, weighing in at a respectable 6.5% per/vol and 77 IBUs.

And then of course comes the interesting hop combination. By using Galaxy, Zythos, Cascade and Columbus hops, the brewmasters were clearly going for a unique combination of sweet and robust. The former two strands are Australian and a combination variety that are known for achieving a tropical fruit taste and smell. The latter two are well-known amongst beer drinkers as being what gives Northwestern Pale Ales and IPA’s their citrusy profile. The end result is what one might describe as a rippling effect of flavor.

Appearance: Crystal clear, good amber hue, mild foam
Nose: Citrus notes and hints of pineapple and passion fruit
Taste: Immediate burst of bitterness and malt giving way to citrus and slight sweetness
Aftertaste: Lingering piney flavor, intermittent pineapple
Overall: 8/10

As it stands, this is the third IPA that I’ve sampled from Dead Frog, all of which are only available in the 650ml bottle. First there was their limited release Fusion Hop, followed shortly thereafter by the Citra IPA. Of the three, I think this one ranks the highest. Many beers get bonus marks for experimentation, but this beer gets its marks for being an experiment done right. And just in case people were wondering, absolutely no marks were given for home delivery! Kudos Dead Frog, congratulation on a fine product and thanks for the sample!

Cannery Brewery Knucklehead Pumpkin Ale

Posted on November 1, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

Hello again and welcome back to the Fall Beer series! And in keeping with my ongoing efforts to give as many pumpkin ales their due, I have procured a bottle of Cannery Brewery’s Knucklehead Pumpkin Ale. As some might suspect, the name is a reference to the type of pumpkins used, but also makes for a delicious pun on the whole “pumpkin head” thing.

And I have to admit, I was somewhat surprised with this version of the fall beer classic. Whereas most breweries tend to make their beers along the same general lines, spicing them with cloves, cinnamon and/or nutmeg and allspice, Cannery seems to have taken the purist route. The label says Pumpkin Ale, and that appears to be what you get. Yes, the label also says they use spice in the mix, but that does not appear to be the case once you taste it. While they may have chosen to add some of the aforementioned spices to

Appearance: Dark ruby-brown, transparent, light foam
Nose: Very mild notes of pumpkin flesh and malts
Taste: Light, refreshing, slight notes of pumpkin, no discernible spice
Aftertaste: Lingering taste of pumpkin flesh, tangy malts
Overall: 7/10

Yes, this beer was a bit of a stumper for me. On the one hand, it was quite light and odd tasting for a pumpkin ale, a variety of beer which usually packs a good dose of rich, spicey flavor, reminiscent of pumpkin pie. However, at the same time, I can see both the honesty and the balls in them doing a beer in this way. While everyone else is doing a pumpkin pie ale that tastes predominantly of cloves and allspice, they are doing a straight pumpkin one that offers nothing but what the name suggests. Admittedly, not my favorite of the variety, but a good and honest beer nonetheless.

Steamworks Pumpkin Ale

Posted on October 29, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

And we’re back with another Pumpkin Ale, which i have to admit, I was somewhat surprised to find. As far as I could tell, I still hadn’t scratched the surface on all the pumpkin beer that I already knew about. But apparently, there are some I never knew of. Case in point, Steamworks Pumpkin Ale, fresh from the brewery located in scenic Gastown in Downtown Vancouver.

Unlike most I’ve tried at this point, Steamwork’s has produced an ale that is brown in variety, as opposed to a Pale Ale which is far more common. In terms of color, the malts, and the toasty, tawny flavor, this beer is the perfect merger of a dark ale with pumpkin spice and zest. A true, all around fall ale, and perfect for my ongoing seasonal review series!

Appearance: Dark brownish-red, transparent, and low foam
Nose: Mixed array of spices, clove and nutmeg the most apparent, pumpkin malts
Taste: Immediate burst of cloves and spice, giving way to tawny malts reminiscent of brown ale
Aftertaste: Lingering taste of spices, cinnamon and nutmeg, mild bitterness
Overall: 9.5/10

And on a coincidental note, I will be in Vancouver this weekend for a football game. Go Lions! And I hope to get into the Steamworks for a little sampling, eats, and hopefully a nice chat with the brewery staff. They do good work, and I intend to tell them so!

Mad Bruin Sour Brown Ale

Posted on October 20, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

Driftwood is back with it’s second release in the “Bird of Prey” series! And this time around, its a sour brown ale made in the Belgian fashion of Oud Bruin (Old Brown) ale. Fans of this series, or those who have a very good memory and just happen follow this blog , will no doubt remember that last fall, they came out with their Flanders Red – a sour ale made in much the same fashion.

Suffice it to say, their Flanders Red was one of the best all around beers I have ever had, balancing authenticity with complexity of flavor and drinkability. Granted, your non-beer drinkers might find it somewhat inaccessible, but there is an awful lot there to appeal to the discerning beer drinker! Much the same is true of the Mad Bruin, which is also made using the same strain of Belgian yeast and aged in oak barrels for 16 months before being bottled and shipped.

The end result of all this is a complex, flavorful beer that has a high concentration of lactic acid, making it quite sour on the tongue. At the same time, the oak barrel aging process allows for notes of flavor that are not unlike a nice, dry red wine. Many different types of tart, sweet fruits are discernible in the nose and palate as well, contributing to a flavor that is both well suited to food pairing and enjoyable on its own.

Appearance: Deep brown/orange, translucent and low foam
Nose: Strong notes of dry red wine, oak and tart fruits
Taste: Immediate burst of sour cherry, plum, oaky, and earthy tones
Aftertaste: Lingering sourness, finishing with a slight touch of bitter
Overall: 9.5/10

Alongside your basic pumpkin ales, I would say sour ale is the perfect fall beer. Perhaps it’s just the deep, gratifying taste or the fact that it reminds me of fall fruit and autumn leaves, but the taste, smell and all around profile of it just feels conducive to autumn weather. Much like the Flanders Red, I plan to secure as many bottles of these as possible before the season is out, and look forward to 2014 when the wife and I will be making the trip to the Flanders region itself! But more on that later…

Granville Island Saison

Posted on October 8, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

Not too long ago, I made a point of mentioning the fact that Granville Island had jumped on the limited release train, as a means of getting back to their craft brewing roots. And yet, I feel like I haven’t properly acknowledged this wonderful trend, by trying everything they’ve put out.

Not exactly a short order, but I have been keeping my eyes open just as soon as I came to realize that this was a recurring thing. And this is what popped: their Saison, a Belgian-style farmhouse that marked the late summer season. And as it is currently going out of style, I thought I’d better scoop one up before moving on to their pumpkin ale (which I’m overdue to try!).

In short, I was impressed. I’ve come to expect a high degree of quality from Granville Island with their seasonal and limited releases, but this beer genuinely reminded me of one of my all-time favorites. Much like Chimay Red, it possesses a flavor that is both peppery and reminiscent of oak, something undeniably Belgian in character.

Appearance: Yellow-orange hue, cloudy and high foam
Nose: Spicey, hints of orange and coriander
Taste: Distinctly Belgian flavor, notes of oak and pepper
Aftertaste: Smooth finish, slight bitterness and peppery, but well rounded
Overall: 9/10

Not bad, Granville! After expressing some disdain over the fate of your regular lineup, you have effectively rekindled my interest with your craft beers. And given that there are currently 11 beers in their inventory of limited releases, I have some thirsty work ahead of me!

Of the Rise in Craft Brewing

Posted on September 22, 2012 by storiesbywilliams

A long time ago, I did an article for this site addressing what I saw as a criminal trend in the brewing industry. Not just any crime mind you, but a crime against nature itself, as far as I was concerned! I was referring to the expansion of major brand names and how it seemed to be leading to an overall dip in quality.

To illustrate, I referred to how some of my favorite craft brewers from over the years had been altering their recipes, mainly so they could achieve mass appeal and expand their sales. Others, also personal favorites of mine, had closed down instead, unable to compete in a mass market dominated by major names and low standards. Not a happy article. But if I’ve realized anything in the past two years, it is that this trend has swung sharply in the other direction.

Yes, craft brewing is becoming more and more popular, and may I say that it’s about bloody time! Whether its an upsurge in the number of micro-breweries or the adoption of a craft beer line by major breweries, the trend seems consistent. Granted this is all based on my own anecdotal experience, but when you notice it happening everywhere, you have to assume you’re onto something!

First, as I said, is the expansion in craft brewing. Of all the micro breweries that I’ve discovered since moving to BC, few seem to have opened their doors before the year 2000. For those that did, you’d be hard pressed to find one that’s been in operation since before the late 90′s. This is true of the Driftwood Brewery, the Cannery Brewery, Moon Under Water, Phillips, Old Yale, Hoyne, Dead Frog, Surgenor, Longwood, Swan’s, Spinnakers, and a host of others that I’ve sampled over the years. Back in Ontario, this is similarly true. It was only in the late 90′s and early millennium that the spectacular operations of McAuslan’s, Creemore, Scotch-Irish, Mill St., Heritage, Cameron’s, Muskoka, and a slew of others were established. And their ongoing success is a testament to fact that the popularity of craft brewing is on the rise.

As for the adoption of special, small-batch product lines adopted by larger operations, I am satisfied to say that this trend seems to be catching on, particularly with breweries that I noticed were watering down the wares. In recent years, the Vancouver Island Brewery, Granville Island Brewery, the Lighthouse Brewery have all began releasing signature or limited release beers that are not part of their regular lineups, and take advantage of the small batch production methods that ensure better quality.

This is also true of such giants as Keith’s, which has expanded its lineup by incorporating a white, an amber and a dark ale. This began in recent years, and represents a complete 180 from what they’ve been doing for the generations now – producing a single, watery ale that bears no resemblance to a real IPA. And Sleeman’s, a major operation in its own right, has even expanded its repertoire by introducing an IPA and a Porter to their lineup.

Granted, brewery ownership is still concentrated in the hands of a few major multinationals, and the vast majority of beer consumed today consists of mass produced, flat and flavorless numbers. Still, the trend towards authenticity and flavor seems to be clear. Consumers are demanding beer that is made locally, in small batches, and in accordance with traditional standards. And for beer snobs, who insist on authenticity over accessibility, this can only be seen as great news. Great news indeed!

So when you’re out next weekend, find yourself a local microbrew, a brewpub, and drink up! And be sure to tip your barmaid. Cheers!

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